Hẻm Gems: An Evening of Bánh Xèo Phan Rang and People-Watching by the Canal
There are certain foods in life that take time to love. Mắm tôm, for instance, or mắm chưng. Any of the mắms, really. Durian, I’m told, is a wonderful fruit on the fourth or fifth try. And while some ...
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: A Quick, Delicious, No-Nonsense Lunch at Quan Com Ga Hai Nam
Now that I'm on my fourth chicken-centric Hẻm Gem, I guess I might as well start carrying out these assignments dressed as a chicken.
Saigon’s First Designated Food Street to Open on Monday
Earlier this year, as District 1 People’s Committee Vice Chairman Doan Ngoc Hai ramped up his sidewalk-clearing campaign, Saigoneers wondered about the fate of the city’s street food vendors. Now, jus...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Sủi Cảo and Handmade Noodles, a Match Made in Food Heaven
Is this the best mì sủi cảo in Saigon? I don’t know, but it’s pretty goddamn delicious.
Hẻm Gems: Phieu Ky’s Fantastic Phở Sa Tế
While Pho Phieu Ky’s white walls and fluorescent lighting are nothing special, the hideaway shop in District 5 makes up for its bland color scheme by pasting neon characters – Roman and Chinese – acro...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Cô Nhi and Chú Den's Humble Nui Xào Bò Cart
At this point in our Hẻm Gem journey, I’ve stopped thinking of us – a two-person team consisting of me and my photographer colleague Brandon – as mere food reviewers, but rather food hunters from hunt...
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Praise Be to Cheap, Tender, Delicious Chicken by the Mosque
Thanks to central Saigon's blistering pace of development and the short-lived sidewalk-clearing campaign of 2017's early months, the downtown area can be something of a street food desert.
Hẻm Gems: Chef Badeh Brings Syrian Cuisine to Saigon
In the small covered area outside the front door, Chef Badeh brings together two of my favorite things: bread and fire.
Hẻm Gems: Kickin' It at Kim Thao's Hột Vịt Lộn Hangout
In the thick of rainy season, afternoon snack spots are hard to come by. Street vendors make do with cement-weighted umbrellas and heavily used tarpaulin, carving out (relatively) dry patches on the s...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: In Search of Saigon's Best Home-Cooked Char Kway Teow
Saigon’s street vendors are a special bunch. They come in various shapes, sizes and backgrounds, but all have one raison d'être: creating the most enticing and memorable dishes that leave patrons year...
Hẻm Gems: The Bowl of Cao Lầu Worth a Run Across the City
Hoi An's cuisine makes a modest appearance in District 7's food paradise.
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The D5 Beefsteak Joint That Means Business
There is no shortage of restaurants slinging beef-based dishes in Saigon, but every now and then one comes along and stands out from the pack.
Hẻm Gems: Co Huoi and Her West-of-the-Border Delights
One of my favorite Saigon pastimes is wandering around strange neighborhoods. If you’re feeling lost or bored or lonely or just a little too comfortable, have someone drop you off in a district you do...
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: The Life-Changing Beauty of Bánh Cuốn Trứng
If I have to drive eight kilometers across the city to get breakfast, it’d better be damn good.
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Pasteur Street's Well-Hidden Cơm Trưa Mother Lode
Every once in a while, you come across a simple Vietnamese restaurant that absolutely blows you away.
Khoi Pham in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: D5's Bò Xào Sa Tế, a Feast for All the Senses
Saigon is changing at a dizzying rate, and so is its food scene: forget about your favorite café or restaurant for a few months and you can come back one day to find it replaced by a convenience store...
Hẻm Gems: Quan 249’s Wondrous Cơm Chiên Emporium
It’s 6pm on a Thursday, and I’m up to my eyeballs in cơm chiên. Page after page, Quan 249’s excessively handled menu features a laundry list of fried rice combinations, some you’ve heard of, some you ...
Hẻm Gems: To Chan's Noodle Soup Offers Comfort in a Bowl
If you turn up to a hủ tiếu spot anywhere in this city and there is not a hand-painted, wooden noodle cart taking up one corner of the venue, you may want to think twice about sitting down.
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: D5's Glorious Com Tam Is the Perfect Drunk Food
Saigon is a city of a million cơm tấm carts, meaning it is easy to pick one at random and chow down. But some stand out from the crowd.
Michael Tatarski in Saigon Hẻm Gems
Hẻm Gems: Anh Tư's Dreamy Grilled Chicken in Binh Thanh
Around the Saigoneer office I've become the go-to scribe when it comes to chicken-related Hẻm Gems. Therefore, when a friend described a Binh Thanh-based restaurant with dozens of chickens hanging abo...
